I made this over a year ago and had a so-called "pattern" written up but after looking over it a few times it was waaay too confusing, so I took it down and forgot about it. I've received a few emails about it lately, so here are some notes for those interested in making my Bluebell pattern. Hopefully it's not too confusing! :)
Materials:
I used Cascade Sierra yarn, which is mostly cotton with a little bit of wool. A nice yarn really, but not quite stretchy enough, in my opinion, for the smock section. You'll want a yarn with a little more elasticity than this. To calculate how much yarn you'll need check out this page: http://www.fiber2yarn.com/info/how_much_yarn.htm
I used 4.0 and 5.0 mm needles but use whatever size you need to obtain the correct gauge (6 sts/inch).
Waste yarn.
Measuring tape & Calculator. You'll need to do a few calculations: neckline, bustline, arms, and the measurement from the neckline to the widest part of your arm/shoulder. Since the body of this sweater is open, the bustline won't be your actual bust measurement (unless of course you want it to be!).
Multiply all these measurements by your gauge, add 2 (you will do a 1-stitch-wide garter stitch border down the fronts), then...
Beginning the Yoke:
First row: K4, *p2, k4, rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Second row: k1, p3, *k2, p4, rep from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1.
Smock Pattern:
Always slip stitches with the yarn held back!
Row 1: k4, *sl 2, k4, rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Row 2: k1, p1, *sl next 2 sts onto cable needle (hold back), k1, p2 from needle, sl 1 st onto cable needle (hold front), p2, k1 from needle, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Row 3: k1, sl 1, *k4, sl 2, rep from * to last 2 sts, sl 1, k1.
Row 4: k1, p1, *sl 1 st onto cable needle (hold front), p2, k1 from needle, sl 2 onto cable needle (hold back), k1, p2 from needle, rep from * to last 3, p2, k1.
The smock pattern will be worked again as before, this time with increases in the first row. The techniques are exactly the same; the numbers change slightly to adjust for the extra stitches. Now…
Row 1: k1, m1, work 8 sts in pattern as before (knitting the knit stitches, slipping the purl stitches), *m1, work 12 sts in pattern, rep from * to last st, m1, k1.
Row 2: This is where you will adjust to the extra stitches that were made. The purl sections in between the cables alternate between 4 stitches wide and 5 stitches wide. Work across the row as before, this time when you get to a section with 5 purl stitches, you will slip 3 stitches onto the cable needle instead of 2.
Row 3: knit the knit stitches, slip the purl stitches.
Row 4: (See note for Row 2)
You will now do purl 2, knit 1 for the rest of the body, increasing and/or decreasing when necessary. Refer again to your measurements & calculations to determine how frequently you will be inc/dec. Always increase in the purl columns to maintain 1-stitch-wide knit columns.
Slip sleeve stitches onto waste yarn and add cast-on an inch's worth of stitches (or more depending on your measurements) to bridge the gap. Continue working in rib pattern for the rest of the body.
Work sleeves in rib pattern. For loose bell sleeves, don't decrease. Work in pattern until desired length. Repeat for second sleeve.
For ties, pick up 3 stitches on front neckline edge and work an i-cord for about 10 inches. Repeat for second tie.
